Domi

Not really, the only wifi devices are phones and IoT.

1000 hours in Alan Wake is impressive. I assume you played part 2?

Is that actually an UPS or just a backup battery? Can it passthrough the line power directly or does the inverter need to run 24/7?

In the latter case you might want to check how much power the inverter eats just by itself. For example, my Bluetti with 2 kWh needs a whopping 50W in idle just to keep the AC ports powered. Of course your unit looks much smaller so it should be way less but still worth measuring.

That is what it is.

It seems they don’t make a variant for Europe so that’s probably why I never heard of it.

The entire house is terminated there, that’s where all the cables go. :)

Is that a Unifi PDU/UPS? Didn’t even know they made these.

Also, you need to peel the stickers of the screens.

Top to bottom:

• Unifi US-16-XG
• OPNsense DEC740
• Unifi Switch 24
• Unifi Switch 16 PoE
• DIY server with an AsrockRack X470D4U mainboard
• DIY DAS in an old server case with 18 3.5" bays

Not in picture: My UPSes, RIPE Atlas probe and an Odroid N2+ running my Home Assistant instance

The server runs Proxmox with a bunch of LXC containers running a Docker Swarm cluster.

There’s too many services running so I’m not listing them all. Let’s just say my phone is not going to be thrilled if it goes down. Also, this post was posted through said server.

Hmm, that’s strange. Can’t think of much else that could prevent that system from displaying anything.

Since you mentioned safe graphics work, can you try enabling the automatic login for your user in GNOME/KDE so the login screen gets skipped?

If that doesn’t work: After booting in normal mode, wait a little bit until it should be at the login screen and then hit Ctrl + Alt + F6 a few times. Does a terminal appear on your screen?

You should have absolutely no issues with that hardware on Fedora.

Could you try switching the display cable out? If that doesn’t work try switching the cable to a different type (e.g. DisplayPort instead of HDMI or vice versa). If that also doesn’t work, try with a different display if you can.

We will find out in the next hack.

Same here, VRR and HDR support on Wayland were the main reason I switched to KDE.

(I also quite enjoy not having to install any extensions now.)

Especially since many Linux related organizations like SUSE and KDE are based in the EU.

Do you use a USB bluetooth adapter? If so, try to use a very short USB A to USB A cable, it gets rid of most 2.4 GHz interference.

I see you still had the bug where OBS would spam “&” in every title.

Yep. Kodi slows down significantly if you have a large library and play through the addon. Native paths fixed that issue by playing directly from a network share instead.

I’m currently using BraveNewPipe, not sure how recent it is but it updates regularly and works well: https://github.com/bravenewpipe/NewPipe

FreeTube has significantly more features, so there’s not much reason to switch either way.

On my phone I have to use a NewPipe fork in order to get SponsorBlock working.

A sync feature between FreeTube and NewPipe would be appreciated though.

Probably a bad time to suggest the Jellyfin for Kodi plugin (since they removed the network paths in this version) but it’s what I use for my main playback device.

All the goodies of playback via Kodi but play state and metadata gets synced from Jellyfin.

Another option of course would be to open the file(s) in MKVToolNix to add and correct the subtitle offset there.

Didn’t watch the video so not sure if it was referenced but there’s also the very interesting CCC talk here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XrlrbfGZo2k

Take a look at the Finamp desktop client. It comes very close to the Plexamp client from back when I was using Plex.